two. Weaving process of full-form knitted garment on flat knitting machine (1) Process calculation 1 . Back calculation In order to facilitate the design and calculation of the production process of the sweater, it is generally customary to calculate the back body first. (1) The number of the bust stitches in the back body = (the size of the bust - the width of the side slits to the back body) × the size of the body and the size of the seams (number of stitches) In order to obtain a good appearance, the seams are easy to organize, and the front and back pieces of the sweater are generally folded to the back body, and the width of the back body is generally 1 to 1.5 cm. The amount of sewing is related to the type of product and the sewing machine. Swinging consumption: generally 0.5cm per side, 3 to 4 needles for fine machine numbers; 1 to 2 needles for rough machine numbers; 2 to 3 needles for general varieties. Shoulder seam consumption: generally take 2 to 8 coils. (2) The number of shoulders and shoulders of the back body: shoulder width × large body width / 1 0 × shoulder inclination correction value + seam consumption Considering the use of the sweater, the shoulder width is widened by the effect of the sleeve stretching. In general, the calculation of the product is 95% to 97%, but the fine needle product (more than 9 needles) has a very small impact on the shoulder width, so it can be ignored. (3) The number of stitches in the back of the shoulder is = (the number of the back bust stitches - the number of the back shoulders) / the number of stitches on each side The number of stitches on each side of the back shoulder is: the thick product generally receives 2 stitches per side; the thin product generally receives 3 stitches. The length of the back hanging shoulder is generally: male shirt 8 ~ 10cm; blouse 7-9cm; children's shirt 5 ~ 7cm. The front shoulder is more than 1 or 2 times longer than the back shoulder. (4) Number of post-collar stitches = (post-collar size factor) × big body cross-secret/10 The factors are mainly related to the way of measuring the edge and the size of the back collar, in addition to the influence of the seam consumption. (5) The number of needles after the back needle = (the number of the back shoulder wide needle - the number of the back collar) / the number of needles on each side The back shoulder product needs to receive the needle on the back shoulder. The longitudinal length of the back shoulder is generally 6~8cm. In the design, it is customary to receive 2 needles on each side of the thick fabric, and the thin fabric receives 3 needles on each side. Should be an integer. 2 . Predecessor calculation Calculation of the number of bust stitches in the front of the pullover: The number of bust stitches in the front of the pullover = (chest size + width of the back side of the two sides) × large body width 10 + seam consumption The number of the front bust stitches of the cardigan-mounted threshold = (bust size + width of the two sides to the back body - width of the door) × large body width / 10 + the number of stitches for the seam and the threshold The number of stitches in the front body of the placket cardigan = (the number of bust stitches + the width of the back side to the width of the back body + the width of the door sill) × the size of the body and the size of the stitches (2) The number of stitches in the front shoulders: the number of stitches should be 2cm more than the back body. Generally, it takes 1 or 2 times more than the back body, which is determined by the product style. (3) The number of front shoulders and wide needles = the number of needles in the front body, the number of needles in the front body 3 . Length calculation (1) Total length of body length = (length of body length rib length + measurement difference) × large body horizontal density / 10 × organization factor + sewing speed The organizational factor here is the conversion factor of the coil into the number of revolutions, which is related to the fabric structure of the fabric. Therefore, it is called organizational factor. The relationship between organizational structure and number of revolutions and organizational factors is shown in Table 1. Table 1 Relationship between organizational structure and number of revolutions and organizational factors Organizational structure Alignment and number of revolutions Organizational factor 畦, semi-twisted, ribbed half air layer One turn and one row 1 Flat needle, rib One turn and two rows 1/2 Ribbed air layer Three turns and four columns 3/4 (2) The distribution of the number of front and rear body rotations. Due to the different styles, the distribution of the number of front and rear body rotations is also different. Flat sleeve back shoulder and shoulder slitting products. Usually the front body is 1 to 1.5 cm longer than the back body. Slant sleeve products due to the style relationship. The length of the front body is shorter than the length of the back body by 1.5 to 2 cm. The measurement difference is generally 0.5 to 1 cm. 4 . Calculation of the number of front and back shoulders (1) Total number of front and rear shoulders: (hanging shoulder size × 2 - correction factor) × large body size / 10 × organizational factors The correction factor depends on the product style and the difference in the specifications of each shoulder. (2) Calculation of the number of shoulder rotations: The number of revolutions above the shoulder is = 1/2 (the total number of shoulders + the number of turns of the back collar) Front (back) body hanging shoulder rotation number = length of rotation - number of rotations above the shoulder The front body hangs the shoulders and the number of revolutions = the number of revolutions above the shoulder - the front body hangs the shoulder to turn the number of turns + seam consumption. The back body hangs the shoulder and the number of revolutions = the number of rotations above the shoulder - the back body hangs the shoulder to turn the number of turns, the back of the collar receives the number of turns + seam consumption (3) The slant sleeve product does not calculate the total number of revolutions of the shoulder, but directly seeks the number of revolutions above the shoulder. Namely: (cuff size + correction factor) × body density / 10 × organizational factors The correction factor depends on the tilt of the slanted sleeve. Generally add 6 to 7. m. 5 . Calculation of the number of deep turns The number of deep turns of the collar = (collar depth dimension ± correction factor) × large body horizontal density / 10 × organizational factors The correction factor depends on the product type and measurement method. 6 . Calculation of the rib rotation number of the hem Hem rib rotation number = (hem rib size - opening length) × 1/2 rib longitudinal density/10 7 . Sleeve calculation (1) Sleeve length = (sleeve size - cuff rib size) sleeve length / 10 × organization factor + seam consumption If the sleeve length is measured from the collar, reduce the shoulder width (flat sleeve) by 1/2 or the 1/2 collar size (slant sleeve). (2) Maximum number of stitches in the armhole = sleeve size × 2 × sleeve width 10 + seam consumption Since the size of the general shoulder is from the shoulder sleeve to the underarm, the sleeve is smaller than the hanging shoulder, usually 2 to 3 cm for men and women, and 1 to 1.5 cm for children. (3) Number of sleeves in the sleeves = (predecessor hangs the shoulders and the number of revolutions + the back slings and the number of revolutions - the number of sewing rotations) ÷ (organizational factors × large body longitudinal density / 10) × sleeves horizontal density / 10 + Seam consumption The sleeves of the slant sleeves are generally 4 to 5 cm. (4) The number of needles in the sleeve = (the maximum number of stitches in the armhole - the number of stitches in the sleeve) ÷ the number of stitches on each side The number of rotations of the sleeves and shoulders is basically the same as that of the front and back body. (5) Number of cuffs (rib intersection) = cuff size × 2 × sleeve width 10 + seam consumption Because the sleeve rib has good elasticity, it cannot be based on the actual size of the cuff, depending on the rib structure and its elasticity. Usually, the cuff size of the weft needle tissue is 12 to 13 cm for men's wear, 11 to 12 cm for women's wear, and 10 to 11 cm for children's wear. (6) Cuff rib rotation number = (cuff rib length - idling length) × organization factor × sleeve longitudinal density / 10 8 . Lower machine blank length calculation Lower machine blank length = total number of grey fabrics 组织 (tissue factor × lower machine longitudinal density / 10) + ribbed machine length 9 . Lower machine fabric width calculation Lower machine blank width = maximum horizontal number of grey cloths 10 . Attachment process calculation The calculation of the process design of the sweater product accessories is correct and directly affects the appearance, quality and specifications of the product. Accessories vary with product type and come in a variety of forms, including collars, sills, trims, and moldings. The attachment process includes the specifications and dimensions of the accessories, the structure of the fabric, the machine number, the machine model, the type of raw materials and the yarn density, the needle pinning method, the pinning method, the color matching method, the density requirement, and the position of the mark. The attachment process design usually uses a combination of actual measurement and calculation, while the sweater is a flexible product, so based on the measured calculation. Pay attention to the choice of seam elasticity during the stitching process to compensate for the lack of calculation. (1) Number of collar pins = collar circumference × collar circle width 10 + seam consumption The collar circumference can be measured by the prototype, or it can be approximated by the geometric shape. In addition, the leader of the collar will also add and subtract correction factors according to the collar type. (2) Number of stitches on the shoulder strap = (hanging shoulder size × 2 + concave correction factor) × shoulder shoulder width 10 (3) Number of revolutions of the attachment = length of the attachment × length of the attachment / 10 + seam consumption All of the above are calculated in one layer. If it is a double layer, the influence of the number of layers should be considered. After the process calculation of the attachment, it can be completed after repeated trial and modification. 11 . Process calculation description (1) The above process calculation refers to the conventional product, and can be adjusted and modified according to the actual situation when calculating. (2) When there are stripping, tying, embroidering, and flower-picking in the fabric, the influence on the size of the specification should be considered and corrected in the calculation. (3) For ease of operation, the number of needles generally taken is singular, with special exceptions. (4) The number of stitches and the number of revolutions calculated according to the size should be appropriately corrected to achieve the desired integer. (II) Example of design process for forming knitted garments Take the 83 × 1tex ( 12/1 male) round neck raglan sleeves rabbit hair women's cardigan as an example to introduce the production process of typical knitted sweaters. 1. Determine the raw material variety and yarn linear density: 83 × 1tex ( 12/1 male) rabbit yarn 2. Determine the product style and measurement method 3. Determine the dimensions of each part of the product with a specification of 90cm (as shown in Table 1 ) Table 1 90cm round neck raglan sleeves rabbit hair women's cardigan     Unit: cm Numbering 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Part bust height Sleeve Length Sleeve Back collar width Hem rib Cuff rib Collar rib size 45 59.5 68 18 9 4 3 3 4, determine the fabric organization The body and sleeves are weft-flat needles; the hem, cuffs and collar are 1+1 ribs. 5, determine the machine number The flat knitting machine can be divided into two types: the fine machine number (the machine number is more than 8 pins, including 8 pins) and the coarse machine number (the machine number is 8 or less). The common machine numbers are 4 , 6 , 9 , 11 and so on. The machine number is closely related to the yarn density and the fabric structure. The higher the machine number, the smaller the stitch length, the finer the machined yarn and the tighter the fabric density. When weaving weft jersey and rib fabric, the machine number suitable for a certain yarn linear density is obtained by the following formula: G= Where: G - machine number (needle / 2.54cm ); T t - yarn density ( tex ); K - a constant suitable for processing the linear density of the yarn. Generally, it is between 7000 and 11000 , wherein the K value of the acrylic expanded yarn is 8000 , and the K value of the wool yarn is 9000 . In this example, when K=10000 , G= Therefore, take G to 11 needles / 2.54 cm . 6, fabric finished product density (as shown in Table 2 ) Table 2 fabric finished product density         Unit: number of coils / 10cm regulation  grid machine  number Grey cloth organization Finished product density Front and back sleeve  child under  put sleeve  mouth tie Landscape Portrait body sleeve body sleeve 90cm 11 Weft needle 1+1 rib 1+1 rib 52 54 83 80 7, process calculation of each part (1) Number of chest circumference stitches in the back = (chest size -1 ) × large body width 10 + seam consumption = ( 45-1 ) × 5.2+4 = 232.8 needles, take 233 needles. (2) Number of stitches on the back neckline = (back collar width + collar rib width × 2 ) × large body width 10 = ( 9 + 3 × 2 ) × 5.2 = 78 stitches, take 77 stitches. (3) Number of lengths of the back body = (length of the garment - rib width of the hem) × longitudinal density (turn) /10 = ( 59.5-4 ) × 4.15 = 230.3 rpm, take 230 rpm. (4) The number of front bust stitches = (chest size +1 ) × large body horizontal density / 10 + seam consumption = ( 45 + 1 ) × 5. 2 + 4 = 243.2 needles, take 243 needles. (5) The length of the front body is = (length of the garment - rib width of the hem - 1.5 ) × longitudinal density (turn) /10 = ( 59.5-4-1.5) × 4.15 = 224.1 rpm, take 224 rpm. (6) Number of rear shoulder rotation = (sleeve fat + measurement factor) × large body longitudinal density (transfer) /10 = ( 18+6 ) × 4.15 = 99.6 rpm, take 100 rpm. (7) Number of needles in the back shoulders = (number of stitches in the back chest - number of stitches in the back neck) / number of stitches received on each side = ( 233-77 ) / 6 = 26 times, 4 turns 3 stitches 22 Times, 3 transfer 3 stitches 4 times. (8) The number of needles in the front body hanging shoulders: less than the back body, 4 rounds and 3 needles 19 times, 3 turns 3 needles and 6 times. (9) hem rib rotation = (hem rib width -0.2 ) × 5.5 = (4-0.2) × 5.5 = 20.9 rpm, take 20.5 rpm (rib latitude 110 course /10cm ). (10) Sleeve length = (sleeve length - cuff rib - collar rib - 4.5 ) × sleeve longitudinal density (turn) /10 = ( 68-3-3 - 4.5 ) × 4 = 230 rpm. Note that this sleeve length specification is measured from the collar. (11) = the maximum number of needles sleeve fertilizer sleeve fertilizer × 2 × sleeve cross-dense / 10 + seam consumption = 18 × 2 × 5.4 + 6 = 200. 4 needles, take 201 needles. (12) Number of sleeves on the side of the sleeve: The slanted sleeve (shoulder sleeve) is generally about 4cm . The number of needles in the sleeve is = 4 × 5.2 = 20.8 needles, and 21 needles are taken. (13) The number of needles received by the sleeve = ( 201-21 ) / 6 = 30 times. The number of slant sleeves hangs shoulders is generally the same as the back slings, so the number of slant sleeves is 100 rpm. (14) = number of needles cuff cuff size × 2 × sleeve horizontal density /10=11.5 × 2 × 5.4 = 124.2 needle, the needle 125 taken (size cuffs take 11.5cm). (15) Cuff rib rotation number = cuff rib width × 5.4 = 3 × 5.4 = 16.2 rpm, taking 16.5 rpm. (16) collar rib calculation: the calculated or measured collar circumference is 38cm , the number of collar ribs is 126 needles; the collar rib rotation number is 35.5 revolutions. The weaving operation process sheet is shown in the figure below. Lower density: 73.5 in the longitudinal direction and 54.5 in the lateral direction ; 5 scorpions in the scorpion; sloshing method: 94 4 transfer 3 needle 19 times 100 4 transfer 3 needle 22 times Turn 3 to 3 shots and 6 times                Turn 3 to 3 shots and 4 times before       sheet                           Rear      sheet 130 130 turn                                        turn 1 pumping 122 front, reverse 121 20.5 rpm    117 front, reverse 116 , 20.5 rpm 100 3 transfer 3 stitches 12 times                           collar Turn 4 to 3 shots 16 times 34 12 34 12 34 Pan 11 turns              Idle 1-1 first row full stitch rib sleeve      sheet              Shake 35.5 turns to the last row to relax 130 æ‰6.5cm long Turn 3 to 1 pin 18 times            Collar ribbing each piece 4 transfer 1 pin 15 times 1 transfer 1 pin 5 times 63 front, reverse 62 , 16.5 rpm Men'S Shirts,Shirts Cotton,Casual Cotton Shirts,Cotton Men Dress Shirts ShaoXing Kailong Trousers CO,.LTD , https://www.sxkailongtrousers.com ≈ 11 (needle)
93 needles 77 needles
243 needle 233 needle
21 stitches
201 pin                131 front, reverse 130 1+1 rib
Open the opposite side of the triangle and pick the eye 1 stitch