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Basic knowledge of textile and clothing testing
Brief introduction of textile and clothing testing knowledge
First, test and classification:
1, according to the different products exported, can be divided into:
a) AATCC, ASTM - Americas
b) AS---Australia and New Zealand
c) BS---United Kingdom
d) CAN/CGSB - Canada
e) DIN---Germany
f) EN - European countries
g) FTM, US CPSC---United States
h) GB, FZ - China
i) ISO -- European countries
j) JIS-Japan
k) NF---France
l) SATRA - Most Countries in the World (Shoe Type Joint Trade Research Association)
m)US CPSC----United States
2, according to different test items, can be divided into:
a) Shrink test
b) physical performance test
c) Color fastness test
d) Chemical property test
Second, test content:
1, shrink test
1) Purpose: To measure the dimensional stability of a woven or knitted fabric after repeated washing in a household washing machine.
2) Principle: Before washing, the size of the sample is marked, and the change in size of the sample is determined by measuring the change of the mark after washing.
3) Process: Select washing and drying methods, cycles and drying times according to cloth type and customer requirements, add standard detergent and appropriate water level to start washing and drying, and finally obtain test results.
2, physical performance test
1) Main items: yarn count, density, gram weight, tensile strength, tear strength, seam slip, seam strength, top breaking strength, wear resistance, pilling resistance, etc.
2) Specific instructions:
Yarn: Refers to the thickness of the yarn. Most of the yarns are currently used in inch-count, expressed as Ne. The definition is: The 840-fold multiple of the long-pitch cotton yarn with a fixed moisture regain of 9.89%.
Density: The number of yarns per INCH.
Weight: The ounce weight per square yard or the weight per square meter.
Tensile strength: The force used when a certain size of fabric is stretched by a powerful machine until it breaks at a constant rate is the measured tensile strength. Tensile strength tests include grab samples and samples, and select specific test methods based on different test criteria and customer requirements.
Tear strength: A certain size specimen is clamped on a torn force tester, and an incision is made in the middle to determine the direction of tearing. The force used to tear the test specimen from the incision with the pendulum drop method is The tear strength measured.
Seam slip: After a certain size of fabric is folded, suture along the width direction, and cut away from the suture for a certain distance, use a tensile strength meter to pull at a constant rate to a certain suture opening force or pull. The opening distance when it reaches a certain strength is the seam slip that we measured. There are two ways of seam slipping, fixed-gauge force measurement and constant force measurement. Select specific test methods according to different test standards and customer requirements. Seam slip is generally only used for woven fabric testing.
Seam strength: Like a seam slip, a certain size of fabric is folded, sutured along the width, cut away from the suture at a certain distance, and stretched at a constant rate using a tensile strength gauge to break the seam. The force used is the measured seam strength, seam strength can be carried out at the same time as the seam slip, and is generally only used for the woven fabric test.
Breaking strength: Under certain conditions, a flat fabric is twisted at an appropriate angle with an expansive expansion force until it ruptures. This force is the burst strength.
Wear-resisting: Under known pressure, the sample loaded on the sample holder is rubbed against the standard abrasive cloth with a certain track under a certain pressure, until the fabric has the number of broken yarns or holes required by the customer. Record the number of frictions at the end of the test, which is the measured wear resistance.
Anti-pilling and pilling: The fabric is tumbled and rubbed under certain conditions for a certain period of time to observe its surface pilling and pilling. Pilling refers to the entanglement of the fibers formed on the fabric surface. Fleeting refers to the rough and uneven fibers on the surface of the fabric and the appearance of the fibers, resulting in a change in the appearance of the fabric. The pilling is assessed by rating or by comparison.
3, color fastness test
1) Main items: color fastness to washing, fastness to dry cleaning, color fastness to rubbing, color fastness to sun, color fastness to perspiration, color fastness to water spot, color fastness to chlorine bleach, and color fastness to non-chlorine bleach, Hot press color fastness.
2) Basic content:
Color wash fastness: the sample is sewn together with a standard lining fabric, washed, washed and dried, and washed at a suitable temperature, alkalinity, bleaching and rubbing conditions to obtain test results in a shorter time . The friction between them was achieved through the small bath ratio and the tumbling and impact of a suitable number of stainless steel beads. Finally, the standard lining fabrics and samples were rated with a special color fastness gray card to obtain test results. Different test methods have different temperatures, alkalinity, bleaching and rubbing conditions and sample size, and specific selections should be based on test standards and customer requirements. Generally washed with poor color fastness cuilan, brilliant blue, black red, navy and so on.
Color fastness to dry cleaning: the same as the color fastness to washing, but it was changed from dry to dry.
Color fastness to rubbing: The sample was placed on a rubbing fastness meter and rubbed with a standard rubbing white cloth at a certain pressure for a certain number of times. Each set of samples was required to have dry rubbing fastness and wet rubbing fastness. The color on the standard rubbing white cloth was rated with a gray card, and the resulting series was the measured rubbing fastness. The color fastness to rubbing requires two tests: dry rubbing and wet rubbing. All colors on the sample must be rubbed.
Sunlight fastness: Textiles are usually exposed to light when they are used. Light destroys dyes and causes a well-known "fade," discoloring colored textiles, generally lightening, darkening, and sometimes changing shades. , we need to test the color fastness, and the sun color fastness test is to put the sample under the specified conditions with the blue wool standard cloth with different fastness levels for solar exposure, and the sample with blue wool. The cloths were compared and the light fastness was evaluated. The higher the blue wool standard cloth number, the lightfast.
Color fastness to perspiration: The sample is sewn together with a standard lining fabric, placed in perspiration solution, clamped on a perspiration-resistant color fastness meter, placed in a constant temperature in an oven, and then the lining fabric of the sample is separated. Drying, and finally rated color fastness special gray cards for standard lining fabrics and samples, to obtain test results. Different test methods have different perspiration ratios, different sample sizes, different test temperatures and times.
Color fastness to water stains: The sample is sewn together with a standard lining fabric, placed in a certain condition of water, fully immersed, clamped on the perspiration-resistant color fastness meter, placed in a constant temperature in the oven, and then the sample is affixed The lining fabrics were dried separately, and finally the standard lining fabrics and samples were rated with a special color fastness gray card to obtain test results. Different test methods have different sample sizes, different test temperatures and times.
Chlorine bleaching fastness: After the fabric is washed in a chlorine bleach solution under certain conditions, the degree of color change is assessed. This is the chlorine bleaching fastness.
Non-chlorine bleaching fastness: After the fabric was washed with non-chlorine bleaching washing conditions, the degree of color change was evaluated, which is the non-chlorine bleaching fastness.
Hot-pressing color fastness: After the dry sample is covered with a cotton lining fabric, it is pressed in a heating device of a specified temperature and pressure for a certain period of time, and then the color change of the sample and the stain of the lining fabric are evaluated with a gray sample card. . Hot press color fastness is dry pressure, moisture pressure, wet pressure, according to different customer requirements and test standards, select the test method.
4, chemical performance test
1) The main test items are: formaldehyde test, pH test, water repellent test, oil repellent test, anti-fouling test, flame retardant test, analysis of fiber composition, and banned azo dye test.
2) Basic content:
Formaldehyde test: It extracts the free formaldehyde or the released formaldehyde in a certain amount of fabric by a certain method, and then passes the colorimetric test to calculate the content of formaldehyde therein. Specific tests are conducted according to customer requirements.
In the current market, textile products can improve the crease resistance of the product through resin finishing. The resin finish is synthesized directly from formaldehyde, so the fabrics that are trimmed by these resins will leave a certain amount of formaldehyde. In addition, in order to improve the color fastness, the cross-linking agent in the coating printing paste and the fixing agent used after the direct dye and the reactive dye are dyed will leave a certain amount of formaldehyde on the clothing material. The formaldehyde can be determined by a certain test method.
pH test: pH meter is used to accurately measure the acidity and alkalinity of the fabric solution. The value read on the pH meter is the measured pH value.
Water Repellent, Oil Repellent, and Anti-fouling Tests: The resistance of fabrics to water, oil, and stains was measured in a certain way, and was determined mainly for the cloths that had undergone three defenses.
Flame Retardant Test: Put the sample on the flame retardant tester according to the regulations for burning to see the flame spread time.
Fiber composition analysis: First, qualitative analysis of the fabric fibers, there are a variety of qualitative analysis, a combustion method, melting point method, hand-feel visual inspection, microscopy slice analysis, etc., generally using microscopy slice analysis, that is, slice the fiber to slice After the observation under the microscope, according to its appearance, determine the type of fiber, and then according to different fibers with different solvents for qualitative analysis, calculate the specific content of ingredients.
Disabling the azo dye test: It is the most important quality monitoring item in the international textile and apparel trade, and it is also one of the most basic quality indicators of eco-textiles. At present, it is mainly analyzed and tested by gas chromatograph. The azo dye test consists of three methods: textiles (except polyester and leather textiles), polyester (polyester), and leather (leather), so the azo test must provide the product ingredients.